Black history month through the glass: The Hidden Story Behind South African Wine
As we head into party season and start choosing bottles to share with friends and family, it's worth taking a moment to think about the people behind the wine we buy.
South African wine has earned a reputation for exceptional quality, from crisp Chenin Blancs to bold Shiraz. But behind the country's world-famous vineyards lies a story many wine drinkers may not know.
For Sanna Miller, wine is more than something shared around a dinner table: it's her livelihood, her community and her family's future. Working in South Africa's wine industry, she has seen first-hand how Fairtrade can create opportunities for workers and their families, from childcare support to community projects that help people thrive.
The History Behind South African Wine
Wine is often called a snapshot of summer in a glass. But what if it was also a snapshot of history?
South Africa's wine industry started around the 17th century and developed through colonial systems that relied on enslaved labour. Later, the sector became intertwined with apartheid, the system of racial segregation that governed South Africa from 1948 until the early 1990s.
For much of that history, Black vineyard workers played a central role in producing wine but were often excluded from owning land, sharing fully in profits or influencing decisions about how vineyards were run.
Against that backdrop, some wine-growing communities have taken steps to increase worker participation and ownership. In 2010, one Fairtrade-certified vineyard transferred around 100 hectares of productive farmland into a worker trust, giving approximately 70 long-serving employees a stake in the land they farm.
It's one of the most pioneering examples of a Black Economic Empowerment (BEE) in South Africa's wine industry, on top of proudly launching a new 100% Black-owned wine brand.
The initiative forms part of a broader effort to create more inclusive opportunities within an industry where ownership has historically been concentrated among a small group of producers.
How Do We Build a Fairer Wine Industry?
The inequalities that shaped South Africa's wine industry were built over generations, so addressing them requires more than a single solution. Building a fairer future means creating opportunities for workers and their families, investing in communities and ensuring more people can share in the benefits of the industry.
Fairtrade is an example of working towards that goal. When wine is sold on Fairtrade terms, workers and farmers receive an additional Fairtrade Premium that they collectively decide how to invest.
In South Africa, Fairtrade Premium funds have supported projects ranging from childcare facilities and after-school programmes to digital learning centres, adult literacy training and community infrastructure. The projects vary from place to place, but they all have one thing in common: they are identified and prioritised by the communities themselves.
Sanna's Story
For Sanna Miller, the impact of Fairtrade can be seen in everyday life.
Before her farm became Fairtrade certified, childcare was one of the biggest challenges facing working parents. For many families, there were few options available during the working day, making it difficult to balance earning an income with caring for young children.
"When my first son was born, we weren't Fairtrade yet. The babies had to live with an aunty, who looked after them."
For Sanna, this meant spending long periods away from her child while relying on family support. It was a reality shared by many parents in her community.
Today, things look very different.
Fairtrade Premium funds have helped provide access to childcare, giving working parents the confidence that their children are being cared for in a safe and supportive environment while they work.
"Our kids are at the daycare, we can work every day."
Reliable childcare has made it easier for parents, particularly women, to participate in the workforce and earn an income while knowing their children are safe.
"The children are happy there. We know they are safe and looked after while we work."
Where to Buy Fairtrade South African Wines
Whether you're hosting a dinner party, choosing a bottle for a festive gathering or looking for a thoughtful gift, there are plenty of Fairtrade South African wines to explore.
-
Coop
-
Waitrose
-
Lidl
-
Independent Wine Merchants and Online Retailers
FAQ
-
What is Fairtrade Wine?
-
Why is South African wine connected to Black History Month?
-
How does the Fairtrade Premium help wine-growing communities?
-
Where can I buy Fairtrade South African wine?
-
Does Fairtrade make a difference for wine workers?
-
Which Fairtrade South African wines should I try?